How To Lighten Hair Without Bleach: What's Actually Possible & 5 Colorist Tips
There's a lot of power in a hair transformation. Whether you opt for a fresh haircut or alter your color, there's surely a refreshing feeling to follow. However, the health of your hair may beg to differ.
Bleach is arguably the most damaging yet also the most powerful. For this reason, many folks wonder if hair can be lightened at all without using bleach. To come, experts answer this question and explain how to brighten your strands in a healthy fashion.
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Is it possible to lighten hair without bleach?
We're going to cut to the chase: You're not going to see a dramatic difference in your hair color without using bleach. Sure some methods may alter the hue of your hair which can make it look brighter, but it's basically impossible to see a bleach-like effect without using the real thing.
Not to mention, using at-home, natural, or DIY options does not mean it's inherently better for hair. Quite the opposite! Many popular DIY methods of hair lightening could potentially do more damage to your strands than just visiting a colorist in the first place.
And to be frank, bleach isn't all bad. If you and your stylist use this ingredient strategically and cautiously, your hair could be just fine. How so? "By taking it slow, completing the project over time in separate sessions," says Emily Claire, Davines colorist, educator, and stylist at Rob Peetoom Salon NYC.
Still, it's still fair to wonder what other methods can brighten the tone of your hair. Especially if you're not looking for a color overhaul and just maybe want a brightening boost.
Below, a few possible options.
How to lighten hair without bleach
As mentioned above, these methods won't take your hair from brunette to blonde like bleach would. Furthermore, not all of them are healthy for your hair, so keep reading for the 101 on common hair-lightening methods:
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Lemon juice
You've probably heard of the DIY lemon juice solution before, but does it actually work? Maybe, but it's not necessarily better than bleach. "Lemon juice is high in citric acid and almost acts like a bleach for the hair," explains certified trichologist and founder of Colour Collective Kerry Yates.
"However, word of caution: Lemon juice with its high concentration of citric acid can be damaging to the hair when misused," Yates warns. "Citric acid can negatively impact overall cuticle health," which means moisture loss, dull strands, and increased breakage.
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Purple shampoos & conditioners
"Purple shampoos do not 'lighten or brighten' the hair—this is a common misconception," Claire explains. "They simply neutralize yellow in the hair," she adds, meaning those brassy hues will be turned into a bright, ashy color.
"It is not necessarily lighter, but our eye will trick us into thinking the cooler shade is lighter and brighter," Yates adds.
It's important to note that purple shampoo and conditioner should be kept for those with already lightened hair. For anyone with a brunette base looking to eliminate orange hues, Claire recommends a blue shampoo and conditioner, like the Davines Heart of Glass line.
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Vinegar
Another popular DIY: vinegar hair baths. However, Yates notes that she's not a huge fan of these baths for lightening purposes.
"I think of it like a diluted 'stripper' in that it takes off excess product buildup and can be relatively harmless to overall hair health," she notes. However, it does have an even higher pH than lemon juice, so it's not great to use often.
Plus, it's simply not that effective, so why put your hair at risk for little to no change in color?
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Sun exposure
Ah yes, the classic UV-induced hair-lightening method. "Your hair naturally lightens with continued exposure to the sun's UV rays," Yates confirms. However, "The UV rays actually degrade both the protein and the melanin, resulting in the ends mainly appearing lighter."
While your beachgoer blonde hue may look nice in the moment, the health of your hair is surely struggling and may appear dry, brittle, or frizzy.
You don't need to hide your hair from the sun 24/7, but sunbathing for the sake of lighter strands isn't a good idea. Plus, 80% of physical skin aging is caused by sun damage1, so the cons definitely outweigh the potential pros on this one.
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Chamomile tea
Last but not least, we have chamomile tea. Some claim this ingredient can gently lighten the strands, but experts disagree. It may be a healthy addition to your hair routine functionally, but it's not going to mimic bleach.
"Chamomile does contain a flavonoid called quercetin, which is used to help stimulate hair growth (positively impacting the hair life cycle) and generate MORE natural melanin within the hair," says Yates, which means darker strands, if anything.
So no, you shouldn't use chamomile for lightening your hair. However, keep an eye out for chamomile as a healthy ingredient in other hair care and hair growth products.
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How to safely lighten hair with bleach
So yes, bleach is very harsh on the hair, but so is lemon juice and sunlight. To be frank, you'll be in a better position going to a responsible colorist who can safely lighten your hair without causing too much damage. Below, a few guiding principles to keep in mind:
- Find a responsible colorist: Finding a colorist you trust can be difficult. For anyone going from brunette to blonde, look for a stylist who specializes in blondes, bleach, and hair health. As a general note, any stylist who recommends the dark brown hair to a full platinum transformation in one session probably isn't looking out for your hair health.
- Go slow: "Honestly, you want to make this change gradually," Yates explains. Think of your new look as a project, not a single assignment. It may take a few months to get you where you want to be, but it'll be worth it when you reach your dream color without completely ruining your hair.
- Do babylights: "Ask your professional stylist to give you 'baby lights' or partial highlights," Yates says. This way, you'll have some instant gratification, but you won't be going fully blonde in one day. She recommends waiting three to four months between highlight appointments, but your exact cadence will depend on the health of your hair and the end result you're looking for.
- Add a gloss: If your strands are already on the lighter side but you want a bit of a change, opt for a gloss. These treatments can actually benefit your hair health while providing a slight change in color. You can get a professional-grade gloss from your stylist or opt for an at-home treatment like those from Nous Hair Care.
How to protect hair from damage when lightening
When you're going through the process of lightening your hair, serious at-home care needs to take place. Below, a few important tips:
- Use bond-building treatments: Claire notes that any blonde client should be using a bond-repair treatment in their care routine. These products contain nourishing ingredients like keratin, biotin, hydrolyzed quinoa, amino acids, or proteins that help to revive chemically damaged strands and strengthen your hair. Two of Claire's picks include K18 and Olaplex, both of which included patented ingredients that work wonders on bleach-damaged strands.
- Skip silicones: "Silicones can smooth the cuticle down, enhancing shine and manageability. However, that can also create a film along the hair shaft, preventing the hair from achieving the proper moisture balance. I liken silicones to chapstick, instantly relieving your chapped lips but never solving the problem," Yates explains. In short, skip the silicones in your wash and leave-in products.
- Limit hot tool use: There's no denying that bleach will damage your hair in one way or another, so it's best to limit other damaging factors like heat damage while your hair is undergoing the change. If you do use hot tools, always use a heat protectant beforehand.
- Try hair slugging: Your hair will be dry post-bleach, which is why all of these steps are so important. To take your at-home care a step further, practice hair slugging once a week. In a nutshell, this means applying a nourishing oil to your scalp and your hair and letting it sit for a few hours or overnight before washing your hair. Here's more information on hair slugging if you're curious.
FAQ
Is it possible to dye your hair lighter without bleach?
We're going to cut to the chase: You're not going to see a dramatic difference in your hair color without using bleach. Sure, some methods may alter the hue of your hair, which can make it look brighter, but it's basically impossible to see a bleach-like effect without using the real thing.
What is the easiest way to lighten hair?
So yes, bleach is very harsh on the hair, but so is lemon juice and sunlight. To be frank, you'll be in a better position going to a responsible colorist who can safely lighten your hair without causing too much damage. Opt for baby highlights, separate your highlight appointments by three or four months, and find a colorist you trust to lighten your hair without ruining it.
Will purple shampoo lighten hair?
"Purple shampoos do not 'lighten or brighten' the hair—this is a common misconception," says Emily Claire, Davines colorist, educator, and stylist at Rob Peetoom Salon NYC. "They simply neutralize yellow in the hair," Claire adds, meaning those brassy hues will be turned into a bright, ashy color. "It is not necessarily lighter, but our eye will trick us into thinking the cooler shade is lighter and brighter," Yates adds.
The takeaway
So, can you have bleach-like results without using bleach? No, not exactly. However, you can use bleach responsibly by taking it slow, going to a trusted colorist, and taking extra great care of your hair at home via bond-building treatments and hydrating products. For the 101 on babylights and what to ask your colorist, read this guide.
Hannah Frye is the Assistant Beauty Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.S. in journalism and a minor in women’s, gender, and queer studies from California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. Hannah has written across lifestyle sections including health, wellness, sustainability, personal development, and more. She previously interned for Almost 30, a top-rated health and wellness podcast. In her current role, Hannah reports on the latest beauty trends, holistic skincare approaches, must-have makeup products, and inclusivity in the beauty industry. She currently lives in New York City.