Beauty Breakdown: Our Full Exfoliation Guide, With All The Expert Tips You Need

As a collective beauty culture, I think we've finally overcome the acid craze that captivated the past few years. As phrases like the moisture barrier and skin microbiome become more familiar to the average consumer, people understand that you simply cannot exfoliate every single day without literally stripping your skin raw. Your skin needs time to rest and recharge. (Say it with me now!)

Oh, but exfoliators are so fun, aren't they? They come in so many sensorially appealing forms and provide instantly gratifying results. Exfoliating is also inherently active—it feels like you're truly doing something to your skin, which makes it all the more tantalizing to experiment with different complexion-enhancing formulas. And while some may consider exfoliation an extra, nonessential step in a skin care routine, for most people it's actually necessary for healthy, plump, youthful-looking skin—so long as you don't scrub your skin raw. 

It raises the question: How do you reap the benefits of exfoliation without going overboard? And what's the best type of exfoliation for your skin type? You’ve come to the right place—here's everything you need to know about buffing and polishing the skin. 

Let's begin with a basic definition: Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin. Now, your skin naturally exfoliates itself every single day—in fact, you shed between 30,000 and 40,000 dead skin cells every minute. However, things like weather, lifestyle, skin care products, age, and dehydration can slow down or halt this process, which can result in dull, flaky, congested skin over time. That's where routine exfoliation comes into play: You can take matters into your own hands to speed up cell turnover, either by manually lifting those cells with a physical scrub or tool or using certain skin care ingredients to gently dissolve them (more on that later). 

No matter which way you choose to approach it, regular exfoliation can reveal a vibrant, youthful, clear complexion. Here are some specific highlights: 

Yes, exfoliation provides an instantly gratifying glow—assuming you do it correctly. Be sure you aren't making these common mistakes:

Consider this your essential exfoliation checklist: 

At-home exfoliation comprises two buckets: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliation involves manually lifting and removing dead skin cells (think scrubs, tools, and the like). Many people prefer this method, as you can control the pressure and, thus, the strength of the exfoliant. Physical exfoliation can also offer more immediate results: "Physical exfoliation offers instant gratification, as dead skin cells and dirt are swept away during the treatment—it's perfect if you need an immediate glow. Some patience is required with chemical exfoliation," says board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness. Not to mention, the actual scrubbing itself can stimulate blood circulation, which offers even more of a glow.

Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, use naturally exfoliating acids such as hydroxy acids (AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs) or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells. Those with sensitive or dry skin might find chemical exfoliants particularly useful, as some light, low-concentration acids can gently promote cell turnover—as opposed to scrubbing with potentially irritating beads or granules.

Choose your exfoliating preference, but stick to one method and call it a day. You don't want to be using both physical and chemical exfoliation at the same time—that's way too harsh for the skin barrier to handle. 

If you do decide to go the chemical route, it's important to be mindful of the acids your skin can and cannot handle. See, different types of acids are better suited for certain skin types: For example, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are hydrophilic, meaning they are water-loving; these are used to slough off dead skin cells, brighten, even tone, and reverse signs of aging. "They can be simultaneously exfoliating and hydrating, making them very beneficial to many skin types," says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), on the other hand, are lipophilic, meaning oil- and fat-loving. "These are really good at breaking through oil and sebaceous skin," says Gohara. That said, those with clogged pores and acne-prone skin might want to opt for an oil-soluble BHA. From there, you can take note of the acid's molecular weight, which will determine how quickly it penetrates into the skin (and thus, how gentle or irritating it can be). Below, discover a few star players:

"With exfoliation, there is such a thing as too much," board-certified dermatologist Flora Kim, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg about exfoliation routines. "If you use too harsh of an exfoliant and too often, you will strip, irritate, and damage your skin instead of helping it." 

Everyone's skin is different, so it's difficult to give one cut-and-dried recommendation, but as a general rule: Less is more. Start slow, and work your way up to a regular cadence as tolerated. If you need a specific schedule to follow, "Most people with normal or combination skin can get away with twice or even thrice-weekly exfoliation," Cochran-Gathers says. "Those with more mature, dry, or sensitive skin may only want to exfoliate weekly."

After exfoliating any patch of skin, face or body, you need to follow up with a moisturizer to repair the skin barrier and keep it hydrated. It's crucial to soothe the skin after slathering on an acid or scrubbing it with any sort of abrasive; not to mention, keeping the skin aptly moisturized helps to avoid dead skin cells from accumulating in the first place. Feel free to browse these body lotions and face creams for top-notch barrier support. 

I repeat: Dead skin cells are not inherently bad! In fact, dead skin is necessary for proper skin function, as they help lock in moisture and keep the precious water from seeping out. So you don't want to be sloughing them off every single night—rather, spend some time simply pampering your skin barrier. 

"It's like when you go to the gym, you need days to recover. The same thing holds true for the skin barrier and the microbiome," says board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., on the mindbodygreen podcast. "You want to use a retinol? Go for it. You want to use an AHA, like glycolic acid? Go for it, but give yourself two nights off when you're just using nourishing, hydrating ingredients." For example, she suggests prebiotics, jojoba oil, sunflower seed oil, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and aloe on recovery nights to replenish the skin barrier. 

Looking to go above and beyond? I applaud your determination! Here are some extra tips to supercharge exfoliation: 

We can credit board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, M.D., for coining the buzzy skin cycling regimen. "Skin cycling does two main things," she notes on TikTok. "First, it prevents irritation. Secondly, it really helps you get the most out of each one of your powerful active products." Essentially, it's a four-day cycle to help dole out your actives: Night No. 1 is for exfoliation, night No. 2 is for retinol, and nights No. 3 and 4 are dedicated to skin recovery. 

There's a good reason to kick off the routine with exfoliation: "Not only does that give you an immediate glow, but it actually helps prep your skin to get the most out of Night No. 2," Bowe says. Again, without a layer of excess dead skin blocking the pores, those subsequent actives can have an easier time penetrating the skin.

Enzymes are tiny molecules found in fruits (think pumpkins, cherries, and papaya) that break down keratin—aka, the protein in dead skin cells. They're slightly different from AHAs or BHAs: They get rid of dead skin cells at the surface of the skin, but they don't exactly promote cell turnover for living cells underneath. Think of enzymes as shedding already dead skin and buffing it smooth rather than a forced cell turnover. 

And enzymes do their best work when the temperature of your skin is increased, as a hotter temperature makes their chemical reaction that causes exfoliation faster and more powerful. That's why experts recommend wearing enzyme masks in the shower, as the temperature increase can enhance their efficacy. Even a lukewarm shower does just the trick. 

DIY ventures can be tricky, especially when it comes to exfoliating agents (note: It's best to stay away from ingredients like lemon juice and apple cider vinegar). However, if you absolutely must attempt a kitchen project, sugar scrubs make great body and lip exfoliators. 

Every makeshift scrub has two simple components: a physical exfoliant and an emollient (any sort of carrier oil, like olive or jojoba, will do). As long as you have those two, you can create a scrub out of virtually anything—brown sugar, coffee grounds, oats, and the list goes on. Create a jar of your favorite concoction, and smear it on your body and lips whenever you'd like to buff away flakes. 

Here, the products beauty experts can't get enough of. 

There are so many nuances to mind when it comes to exfoliation—your skin type, lifestyle, and preferred formulas all play a role in your perfect routine. At the end of the day, the most important thing is to listen to your own skin; your skin is your biggest ally, and it will likely tell you when you've gone overboard. But once you work out the kinks and have your exfoliating routine down pat, you'll be well on your way to a healthier, brighter complexion.